You can steam whole flower hops or put them into 170~180 degree water for a few minutes to sanitize them, and plop the whole mess (hops, water, and all) into your fermenter.

Below is a better way to do this imho. As a secondary concern, what is the best method you know of for dry hopping? In the carboy? In the keg? Using a bag? Best cleanup, etc.
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According to what I read in the MBAA quarterly, Larry Sidor, and Karl Ockert did a research paper together on this very subject. The conclusion was that pellets, inserted 4~5 days post pitch was the best time for dry hopping. So, if you brewed on Tuesday, then by Saturday, you should be dropping in the pellets. Pellets are easier to use, make for more intense flavor and aroma, disperse better, and are easier to remove post ferment. After about 10 days, the beer can be packaged up however you do that. I keg my beer, after chilling down to 31-33 degrees Fahrenheit, and force carbonate to 2.25~2.5 V/V of CO2. Apparently, according to Karl and Larry, the remaining CO2 evolution in the primary recirculates the pellets, keeping them in contact with the beer, resulting in greater utilization. Hope this helps!
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>Cheers, Bill~
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Cheers!

Michel

Now you got it. Hops need to be boiled for the bitterness. Tom

OK...so this is a process for adding aroma...probably not bitterness?> Gary

If I read you right dry hopping will not add any IBU's to the beer.>> If you want to add IBU's to a finished beer you could try adding some > hop tea. Not sure how well it would work.>> Tom>>

Brett:>>>> If I understand your post correctly regarding "keg hopping" , you are >> suggesting that one sink dry whole flowered hops (in a bag) into a >> corny keg.hop bag weighted with a glass or whatever to it to the >> bottom?...and presumably leave bagged hops in the keg until the beer >> has been consumed?>>>> Sounds interesting. I may do this for a "refreshment" I am planning >> for Hop Madness. J Seems like a logical method to get to 101 IBU's >> (somewhat expected at a hop festival).>>>> Gary

Dry hopping is both fun and easy. Here's the basics ->>>> * use pellets or whole hops when dry hopping in the secondary>> fermenter>> * use hops with good aromatics - Simcoe, Columbus, Cascade,>> Amarillo...you get the point>> * 10 days with the dry hops at 68 degrees F.>> * lighter ales need about 1oz per five gallons>> * IPAs can take 2-3oz per five gallons>> * IIPAs can take up to 8oz per five gallons>> * don't worry about " nasties">>>>>> Keg hopping is fun as well. Use the hop bag at phase and avoid pellets >> at all costs. It helps to have something heavy in the bag that will >> aid in sinking it - try a thick walled whiskey glass or stainless >> steel marbles.>>>> Cheers!>>>> BT

Greetings fellow fish,>>>> I am curious about any prep that may be suggested before dry hopping a >> beer. When, how long, methods, and preparation are the main questions >> in my mind. While all these questions burn in my mind, in particular, >> I am curious about something I read (and since forgot) about the >> possibility of hop flowers bringing in bad nasties into the >> fermentation party. Is there a recommended method for wetting them, or >> heating them so they don't bring in air to the party?>>>> As a secondary concern, what is the best method you know of for dry >> hopping? In the carboy? In the keg? Using a bag? Best cleanup, etc.>>>> Cheers, Bill~>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------>>>>